Biryani is one of
the original Mughal delicacies – an aromatic feast of rice and meat that is
slow-cooked for hours and traditionally served at Eid. My earliest memories of
it are when my dad cooked it at home. We sisters waited patiently for lunch
until 4 pm, by which time we were ready to rip the flour-sealed lid off the
darn thing and eat it directly out of the enormous cauldron it was baking in.
Feeds
4–6
2 tbsp milk
1 tsp saffron
5 medium onions
12 tbsp ghee
2 tbsp rose water
salt
For
the dry masala
1 mace flower
4 cloves
4 green
cardamoms
1/4 tsp freshly ground nutmeg
For
the lamb
1kg (2lb 3oz) diced
shoulder of lamb 10 garlic cloves
5cm (2in) root
ginger
3 fresh green
finger chillies
15g (1/2oz)
fresh coriander leaves
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 mace flower
1 tsp freshly
ground nutmeg
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp garam masala
500g (1lb 2oz)
natural Greek yoghurt salt
For
the rice
4 cloves
2 brown cardamoms
2.5cm (1in) cinnamon stick 500g (1lb 2oz) basmati rice
1. Warm the milk and soak the saffron in it.
Next make the dry masala by crushing the mace flower, cloves and green
cardamoms in a coffee grinder, mix with the nutmeg and set aside.
2. Now make the marinade for the lamb. Place the
diced meat in a medium mixing bowl. Peel the ginger and garlic and,using a
blender or food processor, purée with the remaining ingredients to make a thick
marinade, adding salt to taste. Add this to the lamb, stirring so that the
pieces of meat are well coated, and leave to sit while you prepare the rest of
the dish
3. Peel and finely slice the onions. In a medium
pan, heat 8 tablespoons of the ghee on a high setting. When it is hot, add
three of the chopped onions and sauté for 15 minutes until golden
4. Next add the lamb and all of its masala,
browning the meat all over. Lower the heat to medium, cover with a lid and
cook, stirring frequently, until the meat is tender. This will take about 45
minutes, depending on the quality of the lamb. If the meat dries out during
cooking, add half a mug of hot water to moisten it and help it cook. Add salt
to taste when it’s ready.
5. In the meantime, prepare the rice. In a large
pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the ghee on a high setting. When it’s hot, sizzle the
whole spices for a few seconds and add the rice. Stir for 1 minute until it
starts turning translucent, and then add three mugs of water, cover with a lid
and simmer for 5 minutes until half cooked. Drain the water and leave to sit.
6. In a small frying pan, heat the remaining
ghee on a high setting. When it is hot, fry the remaining onions for 15 minutes
until golden brown.
7. Now assemble and finish the biryani. Spread
half the partly cooked rice over the bottom of a casserole dish. Sprinklehalf
the dry masala over this, along with half the fried onions, rose water and
saffron milk. Spread the lamb curry on top. Finally, layer with the remaining
rice, dry masala, rose water and saffron milk. Seal this tightly with the lid –
if it’s a bit wobbly, wrap foil tightly around the edges.
8. Place on a low heat for 20 minutes until the
rice is thoroughly cooked and fluffy. Alternatively, place in the
oven,preheated to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4, and cook for a similar length of
time. Then scatter with the remaining fried onions and serve piping hot, using
a small plate to scoop up the biryani from the bottom of the pot to ensure that
everyone gets a bit of everything. Serve with Anda Raita.


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